VAL D’ISERE

Val d’Isere, with the ski area of Tignes (all on the one ticket), has an excellent variety of terrain suited to all abilities throughout the resort.

The first-timer area is conveniently located at the main base area, and is close to a lot of the village accommodation. From there beginners can progress to different parts of the mountain including several areas called “Piste Tranquille” for quiet skiing.

As with many French resorts, the blue, red and black classifications can become a bit vague with many runs being more difficult than their classification would suggest. Some beginners and lower intermediates may find it easier to download back to the village, since there’s often no easy way down.

Intermediates will love the endless runs, and this resort is also well suited to advanced skiers. For starters there’s the super steep Bellevarde run (that was the 1992 men’s Winter Olympics downhill course), and tons of wide open red runs for some high-speed cruising. But the main attraction is the fantastic off-piste, much of which is accessed via lifts. Most of it is only recommend when with a guide and using safety equipment since a lot of this terrain is unmarked, and a guide’s experience and local knowledge will add to your enjoyment.

Due to its high elevation, the snow at Val d’Isere generally stays in good condition, and it doesn’t always get chopped up quickly. We were able to find some untracked powder off-piste (with a guide) despite it having not snowed for six days.

And lastly this review can’t go without mentioning the unique chairlift called Leissiers. It takes you up and over a ridge meaning that, unlike most chairs that only go up, the second half of the ride is downhill. Plus, it works both ways so skiers are on the chairs heading towards you … all quite disconcerting at first!

Val d’Isere makes a great choice for families. The resort is recognized as a “Famille Plus” destination, meaning that it matches family-friendly criteria.  The village is easy for families to get around, whether walking in the pedestrian-friendly areas or using the shuttle buses. The main childcare center (Village des Enfants) is conveniently located near the ski-area base and is for children up to 13 years (though not under 18 months). There are also plenty of ski schools and the beginner area is easy to get to, being right at the center of the village. The gigantic aqua leisure complex has a great pool for kids, with waterfalls and plenty of play area.

There are a variety of hotels that are suitable for families, along with a very good selection of self-catered apartments.  The other great benefit of Val d'Isere is that most of the hotels are a very short walk to the main ski school and beginner base area so logisitics don't become a major hassle.

Val d’Isere boasts some beautiful, luxurious hotels, from traditional mountain style through to modern chic. Prices can be quite high, particularly over Christmas and New Year but there are also some good value options to be found. Val d’Isere also has its fair share of catered chalets and self-catered apartments. For most visitors to Val d'Isere (particularly if it is your first visit) we reccomend staying in or close to the main center rather than one of the satellite villages as you will want to spend a lot of time in the village afer skiing.

You can find a map of Val d'Isere village here.

Those looking for something to do, other than skiing of course, will not be bored in Val d’Isere. There’s a kids ice rink in the center of the village, dog sledding, ice climbing, snowshoeing, spas, a cinema and the big, new Aqua Complex that features a huge play pool, a 25m lap pool, saunas, steam rooms, hot tubs, gym (with classes) and massage. For those looking for more cultural experiences, there are French cooking classes, galleries, shopping and the fantastic working farm, La Ferme de l’Adroit up the end of the village. There you can see the animals in the barn, buy fresh cheese and the most delicious yoghurt Scout’s tasted (from their own cows of course) and dine in the restaurant. If speed is what you’re chasing you can always have a go on the BMW ice-driving circuit. Sadly, you’re not allowed to drive but we can attest that being driven by a professional driver several times around an icy, very windy 1km course is much more thrilling (and terrifying) than if you were driving yourself.

The nearest airports to Val d’Isere are at Chambéry (2hrs), Grenoble, Lyon and Geneva (3-3.5hrs). There are plenty of bus transfers from each airport. Arriving by train is easy with the nearby Bourg-St-Maurice (30km) being the closest stop. There are plenty of bus transfers up to the village.

Getting around the village is easy since most things are within walking distance around the center village, or you can use the convenient shuttle service. There are also plenty of taxis.

Val d’Isere usually opens in the last week of November and operates until early May. Christmas and New Year is the peak time, as is February for the French and UK school holidays. January is a great time to visit - the slopes are quiet and the snow is reliable, though it can be quite cold. March and April are great for spring skiing and enjoying lunch on restaurant decks. As there are plenty of high-altitude slopes the snow usually stays fairly high quality.