COURMAYEUR

Courmayeur as a ski destination is best described in two parts – the resort and the off-piste.

Courmayeur Ski Resort

Sitting across the valley from the main village, the Courmayeur ski area is divided into two sections, the Checrouit side (which connects to the village by a cable car) and the Val Veny side. It’s quite convenient the way it’s laid out because you can essentially enjoy the sun in the Checrouit side in the morning and then follow it over to the Val Veny side in the afternoon. The resort is characterized by long, fairly wide red runs that are perfect for strong intermediate skiers who love to cruise. The Val Veny side has more trees and great views of Mont Blanc. Various improvements over the years have created a solid network of fast lifts and, of course, there are terrain park features and an air bag for practising your jumps.

Courmayeur Off-Piste

In the past few years Courmayeur has become famous in particular for its excellent freeriding (extreme off-piste). Not only was it a stop on the Freeride World Tour, but it has featured in several movies and in ski magazines. There are various ways to enjoy all that Courmayeur has to offer for expert skiers. Firstly, there is a small amount of fun and somewhat challenging tree skiing within the resort. But head to the tiny gondola at Col Checrouit to get to the top of the resort at Cresta d’Arp (2755m) and from there you can explore some fantastic runs, either in a long loop back down to the resort area where you can pick up the chair at Zerotta or over the other side into La Thuile. You need to know where you are going so make sure you have a guide and the necessary safety equipment. The second off-piste zone is at the northern end of the valley and is accessed by the new Skyway Mont Blanc – an engineering marvel that opened in 2015 and whizzes skiers and sightseers up 2092m in a rotating cable car. When you arrive at the top station, Punta Helbronner (3462m), you feel just steps from Mont Blanc – the roof of Europe standing at 4810m. Expert skiers can set off with all the necessary safety gear (including the most important piece of equipment – a guide) and head north to the Vallee Blanche, ending up in Chamonix, France, or take the other routes back down into the Aosta Valley, ending up back at the start of the Skyway. The third, slightly more expensive way to access the off-piste, is heli-skiing. We can only imagine how good that would be.

After reading our description of the types of people suited to Courmayeur you will understand that it wouldn’t necessarily be our first recommendation for families. Unless, of course, you fall into one of the two categories as a family.

Courmayeur has a great mix of accommodation options. There are two five-star hotels – each quite distinct in its character. Then there’s a great range of three-star and four-star hotels and lodges. From small, family-run lodges to larger boutique-style hotels, there’s definitely one to suit every taste and budget. Most are within walking distance of the pedestrian village, though few are within easy walking distance of the cable car that connects with the ski resort. There are also others scattered in the hamlets around Courmayeur, with several in the little village of Entreves. For ease of access to the ski resort we recommend having your own wheels or choosing a hotel that has a shuttle to the ski area.

Spas, shopping, drinking and eating are the best activities to do in Courmayeur, (apart from skiing!). The pedestrian village is lined with boutiques selling everything from €5000 cashmere coats and antiques to crampons and touring skis. The nearby Pre Saint Didier thermal spa is a must-visit. Located a few kilometres from the village, it has a variety of thermal spas (including mud baths) set in a historic building.

Of course there’s a variety of other activities in Courmayeur (showshoeing, cross-country skiing, indoor climbing, museums and more), but after all the skiing, soaking, drinking, eating and shopping you’ll do it’s unlikely you’ll have any time left for anything else.

Courmayeur is 1 hr 20 min from Geneva Airport (via the Mont Blanc Tunnel) and 1 hr 40 mins from Turin. Each of these airports has connecting coach services to Courmayeur.  The nearest train station is at Pre Saint Didier (5km) which is connected by a bus service.

To get around Courmayeur you will mostly be on foot (around the village) or car. There is a public ski bus service that connects the village and hamlets with the ski area and it is free with a multiple day lift ticket.

The ski area opens at the end of November and operates until mid-April.