VERBIER

Verbier is a part of the 4 Vallees ski area that connects several resorts and features more than 80 lifts and 400km of ski runs. It’s a huge area, home to 11 villages and is not dissimilar to France’s 3 Vallees. The ski map just doesn’t do it justice because in reality it feels so much bigger, with so many more runs than are shown. In parts the ski areas can feel a little disconnected and key bottleneck runs and connecting lifts can get crowded.  But it’s worth making an effort to discover the different areas, because there are many great parts that don’t see much traffic (such as the Savoleyres area above the village). Almost all of the 4 Vallees is above the tree line, and the only times you really ski through trees are on the runs home at the end of the day. Some of the lower runs can get quite sun-affected, though they do have snowmaking.

We’ve already talked about the extreme and advanced skiing above, but we’ll stress again that we highly recommend advanced skiers get a guide and explore some of the itineraries and further off-piste areas – if you don’t do this you’re missing out on so much of what Verbier has to offer. We loved the runs off the back of Mont Fort that looped right back around to the resort without too much effort. But you really need to know where you’re going and some areas can be avalanche prone.

Verbier is great for intermediate skiers as well, though sadly they are the ones that will suffer the most with crowds on weekends. Fortunately, the runs are well groomed and wide and the lifts are good so it usually doesn’t cause too much of a problem. It’s worth making an effort to explore the whole area, because there are some great runs in the other areas beyond the main Verbier slopes. One day it’s worth taking the gondola across the valley to the little area of Bruson, which is where many of the locals ski and no one else.

Verbier ski resort is a little disconnected for beginners. There are two small bunny slopes in the middle of the village, called Les Moulins and Les Esserts, that aren’t connected to any other part of the resort. A separate pass can be bought just for these areas. In the main resort there are a couple of blue runs at La Chaux and Savoleyres but in general beginners might struggle as the progression to intermediate runs is pretty quick.

Verbier has a variety of other features, including a ski cross course, a “fun slope” for young kids to learn some skills and a more advanced Snow Park (or terrain park) that has all the usual features, including an airbag for practising bigger jumps. You can even hire a drone with auto-follow features if you’re that way inclined – though the areas you can fly drones in are restricted. There are several good ski schools and guides. Some of the schools offer week-long camps to push your skiing to the next level.

Not bad but not the best – that’s how we would summarize Verbier’s suitability for families. The high cost of things would be enough to put off most families but the quite intense party scene, inconvenient village layout and disconnected (albeit central) beginner areas also detract from the appeal. Fortunately, there are some good discounts for families on lift passes and of course there are all the services you would expect, including babysitters, nurseries and Kid’s Club ski school for children aged three and above.

Verbier has more chalets – private and group packaged – than probably any other ski resort in Europe. Typically, most of them are all-inclusive. However, Verbier also has a surprisingly good selection and range of hotels, from 2-star B&Bs to luxury, full-service 5-star hotels and everything in-between. Location is key when choosing a hotel. Generally speaking, those close to the lifts and center are noisy, while those a bit further out are a bit quieter but will require a shuttle to get to the slopes. Unusually for a ski resort, some of the better value 3-star hotels are some of the more conveniently located. There are only a few ski-in ski-out hotels in Verbier.

If you aren’t after the village scene or prices you may be better off in one of the other smaller villages of the 4 Vallees, such as Nendaz or Veysonnaz.

If you aren’t partaking in après, there are a handful of other activities to do while staying in Verbier. It has an excellent sport center with pool, saunas, hot tubs and a large indoor ice rink. There is also a fantastic sled run from Savoleyres to La Tzoumaz, winter hiking, snowshoe trekking, a small cross-country ski area and dog sledding. Motor heads can also try their hand at ice-karting. Those looking for something more relaxing might enjoy one of Verbier’s spas or some time out at the cinema.

Geneva is the closest main airport, about a two-hour drive. Zurich and Milan are also close, each between three to four hours’ drive away. Bus transfers are available from all airports. It’s also possible to catch the train to Le Chable at the bottom of the valley and transfer up to Verbier by bus or gondola. Parking in Verbier can be a bit of a pain as the number of spots in hotels is usually pretty restricted. There is free public parking at the sports center or you can pay for more convenient parking.

Getting around Verbier is usually by foot or free shuttle, which is fairly reliable and frequent.

Verbier and the 4 Vallees is open from the end of November until April. Given the altitude at the top of the resort, most of the slopes have a pretty reliable coverage of good snow. However, most of the lower slopes face south or west and are at lower elevation (below 2500m) so can get a bit sloppy and thin towards the end of the season. Verbier can be busy on weekends with an influx of guests from Geneva, London and Europe’s other main centers.